Welcome to the CCHT! We develop computational models for wind waves and coastal circulation, and then apply these models to high-resolution simulations of ocean behavior. Our goals are to understand how coastlines are threatened during storms, how materials are transported in the coastal environment, and how to communicate these hazard risks for use in decision support. Our research spans the disciplines of coastal engineering, numerical methods, computational mathematics, and high-performance computing.

In this web site, we share our research progress, from development to application, and from coding to publishing. Learn more about What We Do and how to Join Our Team.

Deterministic, Dynamic Model Forecasts of Storm‑Driven Coastal Erosion

The U.S. Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts are vulnerable to storms, which can cause significant erosion of beaches and dunes that protect coastal communities. Real-time forecasts of storm-driven erosion are useful for decision support, but they are limited due to demands for computational resources and uncertainties in dynamic coastal systems and storm forcings. Current methods for coastal change forecasts are based on empirical calculations for wave run-up and conceptual models for erosion, which do not represent sediment transport and morphological change during the storm. However, with continued advancements in high-resolution geospatial data and computational efficiencies, there is an opportunity to apply morphodynamic models for forecasts of beach and dune erosion as a storm approaches the coast. In this study, we implement a forecast system based on a deterministic, dynamic model. The morphodynamic model is initialized with digital elevation models of the most up-to-date conditions and forced with hydrodynamics from wave and circulation model forecasts, and its predictions are categorized based on impact to the primary dune, defined in this study as the first ridge of sand landward of the beach. Results are compared spatially to the observed post-storm topography using changes to dune crest elevations and volumes, and temporally to the predicted total water level at the forecasted moment of dune impact.

JF Gorski, JC Dietrich, DL Passeri, RC Mickey, RA Luettich Jr (2024). “Deterministic, Dynamic Model Forecasts of Storm‑Driven Coastal Erosion.” Natural Hazards, published online, DOI: 10.1007/s11069-024-07012-2.

News: NC State on the Coast

2024/10/08 – NC State
NC State faculty and students are helping to keep coastal communities healthy through the North Carolina Center for Coastal Algae, People and Environment

NC C-CAPE (and our fearless leader Astrid Schnetzer) were featured on the NC State homepage.

NC C-CAPE was featured on the NC State homepage. Lots of information and quotes from folks in the center, including great photos of our colleagues in the field and laboratory. It is fun to contribute to such a large, meaningful research effort.

ncsu-engr

“In the past few months, we’ve officially started to sample as NC C-CAPE,” [Barrett] Rose said. “It was a shock to see the magnitude of how much we were actually studying. It went from a small pilot study to a huge center effort.”

Data collection and analysis is only the first part of the work NC C-CAPE seeks to do. While harmful algal blooms are common in fresh waters across the U.S. and the world, major data gaps around the issue exist. [Astrid] Schnetzer’s data will inform NC C-CAPE’s other two projects, which focus on predicting the health risks of toxic algal blooms on mammals and humans, as well as considering how factors like climate change will affect future toxin levels in water and seafood.

“The most exciting aspect of NC C-CAPE for me is that the research doesn’t end where my expertise ends,” said Schnetzer. “What we learn from the field about algal toxins is handed to the next team to look at the bigger picture on the ecosystem level and in connection to human health.”

Wind and Rain Compound with Tides to Cause Frequent and Unexpected Coastal Floods

With sea-level rise, flooding in coastal communities is now common during the highest high tides. Floods also occur at normal tidal levels when rainfall overcomes stormwater infrastructure that is partially submerged by tides. Data describing this type of compound flooding is scarce and, therefore, it is unclear how often these floods occur and the extent to which non-tidal factors contribute to flooding. We combine measurements of flooding on roads and within storm drains with a numerical model to examine processes that contribute to flooding in Carolina Beach, NC, USA — a community that chronically floods outside of extreme storms despite flood mitigation infrastructure to combat tidal flooding. Of the 43 non-storm floods we measured during a year-long study period, one-third were unexpected based on the tidal threshold used by the community for flood monitoring. We introduce a novel model coupling between an ocean-scale hydrodynamic model (ADCIRC) and a community-scale surface water and pipe flow model (3Di) to quantify contributions from multiple flood drivers. Accounting for the compounding effects of tides, wind, and rain increases flood water levels by up to 0.4 m compared to simulations that include only tides. Setup from sustained (non-storm) regional winds causes deeper, longer, more extensive flooding during the highest high tides and can cause floods on days when flooding would not have occurred due to tides alone. Rainfall also contributes to unexpected floods; because tides submerge stormwater outfalls on a daily basis, even minor rainstorms lead to flooding as runoff has nowhere to drain. As a particularly low-lying coastal community, Carolina Beach provides a glimpse into future challenges that coastal communities worldwide will face in predicting, preparing for, and adapting to increasingly frequent flooding from compounding tidal and non-tidal drivers atop sea-level rise.

TH Thelen, KA Anarde, JC Dietrich, M Hino (2024). “Wind and Rain Compound with Tides to Cause Frequent and Unexpected Coastal Floods.” Water Research, 266, 122339, DOI: 10.1016/j.watres.2024.122339.

Subgrid Modeling for Compound Flooding in Coastal Systems

Compound flooding, the concurrence of multiple flooding mechanisms such as storm surge, heavy rainfall, and riverine flooding, poses a significant threat to coastal communities. To mitigate the impacts of compound flooding, forecasts must represent the variability of flooding drivers over a wide range of spatial scales while remaining timely. One approach to develop these forecasts is through subgrid corrections, which utilize information at smaller scales to “correct” water levels and current velocities averaged over the model scale. Recent studies have shown that subgrid models can improve both accuracy and efficiency; however, existing models are not able to account for the dynamic interactions of hydrologic and hydrodynamic drivers and their contributions to flooding along the smallest flow pathways when using a coarse resolution. Here, we have developed a solver called CoaSToRM (Coastal Subgrid Topography Research Model) with subgrid corrections to compute compound flooding in coastal systems resulting from fluvial, pluvial, tidal, and wind-driven processes. A key contribution is the model’s ability to enforce all flood drivers and use the subgrid corrections to improve the accuracy of the coarse-resolution simulation. The model is validated for Hurricane Eta 2020 in Tampa Bay, showing improved prediction accuracy with subgrid corrections at 42 locations. Subgrid models with coarse resolutions (R2 = 0.70, 0.73, 0.77 for 3-, 1.5-, 0.75-km grids) outperform standard counterparts (R2 = 0.03, 0.14, 0.26). A 3-km subgrid simulation runs roughly 50 times faster than a 0.75-km subgrid simulation, with similar accuracy.

A Begmohammadi, D Wirasaet, N Lin, JC Dietrich, D Bolster, AB Kennedy (2023). “Subgrid Modeling for Compound Flooding in Coastal Systems.” Coastal Engineering Journal, 66(3), 434-451, DOI: 10.1080/21664250.2024.2373482.

Posters: Summer 2024 Conferences

Conference : YCSECA 2024

Tomás & Molly get their Diplomas!

The CCHT celebrated the graduation of Tomás Cuevas López and Molly McKenna!

Tomás is now coastal scientist with DHI, but he worked remotely in Raleigh through the semester. Molly finished her BS and will pursue an MS degree and continue work in our DHS project. It was great to celebrate them at the graduation ceremony. We are proud of them!

Casey Dietrich, Molly McKenna, and Tomás Cuevas López after the graduation ceremony.

Brandon wins Outstanding Senior Award for Scholarly Achievement

Undergraduate student Brandon Tucker won an Outstanding Senior Award for Scholarly Achievement, which recognizes exceptional academic performance including participation in undergraduate research. Brandon was among four outstanding seniors recognized by our department.

[H]he continued undergraduate research as part of the Coastal and Computational Hydraulics Team with Associate Professor Casey Dietrich and graduate student Tomás [Cuevas] López. The project was related to predictions of coastal flooding due to hurricanes.

“I helped run more than 1 million CPU hours of hurricane models to train our machine-learning model called Concorde, which can predict storm-driven flooding in seconds,” Tucker explained. “I also created detailed Python examples for Kalpana, an intermediary model used by researchers across the country.”

“This was a lot of work,” Dietrich emphasized. “Each hurricane simulation can take several hours on a parallel computing cluster and generate gigabytes of data, and so it took about two months to complete the simulations. It would have taken much longer without Brandon’s help and creativity. He wrote scripts to automate the process to submit, monitor, and archive the simulations, and he contributed to a post-processing visualization script. His documentation and examples are now shared widely with all users of the software. Brandon is strong at the technical skills of computing and programming, but he also sees the larger picture and looks for ways to contribute.”

After graduation, Brandon will pursue a Master of Civil Engineering at CCEE with a focus on transportation systems, while also completing a Graduate Certification in City Design from the College of Design.

Congratulations to Brandon!